This is not a building

Photo credit: Joshua Wolper 2024.

This is not a building

The MTR ventilation shafts hiding in plain sight

by City Unseen

At 308 Nathan Road, Jordan, there is an ordinary looking clothing store, but if you look up, you might notice that the building has no windows. Above the ground floor, a dark void can be seen through an open metal grille. A second grille sits above the first one, set several metres back from the street. The top of the structure is braced by several exposed horizontal support beams. This is no ordinary building. It is an MTR ventilation shaft.

In Europe and North America, there is a tradition of building fake houses to disguise ugly infrastructure. Transport for London maintains two false facades at Leinster Gardens to hide an exposed section of the London Tube’s tracks from public view. But the ventilation shaft on Nathan Road is practically the complete opposite; it houses a real shop but makes no attempt to look like the surrounding buildings. It goes unnoticed by playing to expectations. Most people who see a shopfront do not bother looking up.  

Fake houses at 23-24 Leinster Gardens, London and the train tracks behind them. 倫敦倫斯特公園大道23-24號的假屋,以及假屋後面的地鐵路軌。 Source: Hywell Williams, 2005, Wikipedia CC BY-SA 2.0; Duncan, 2013, Wikimedia Commons CC BY-SA 2.0.

Left: Fake houses at 23-24 Leinster Gardens, London. The identical grey windows are actually painted concrete. Source: Hywell Williams, 2005, Wikipedia CC BY-SA 2.0. Right: Train tracks behind the fake houses. Source: Duncan, 2013, Wikimedia Commons CC BY-SA 2.0.

There is a second such shaft at 783 Nathan Road in Prince Edward with a convenience store on the ground floor. They are the only two of their kind, built between 1975 and 1980 as part of Hong Kong’s first MTR line. But before we dive into the factors that led to their creation, let us first deal with the basics. How do ventilation shafts work?

MTR ventilation shaft on 783 Nathan Road 彌敦道783號港鐵通風樓

Ventilation shaft/shop at 783 Nathan Road in Prince Edward. Photo credit: City Unseen, 2024.

Air in, air out: the basics of underground ventilation

Ventilation shafts bring fresh air down into the MTR, and draw foul air out. This “foul” air is not heavily polluted as the trains run on electricity, not combustion engines. However, it contains the accumulated carbon dioxide, water vapour, body odours, and toilet smells generated by millions of commuters. It also carries heat emitted by the trains’ cooling systems. Ventilation shafts are essential to keeping people cool and comfortable underground. When the system was first designed in the 1970s, engineers worried that in Hong Kong’s hot climate, temperatures would become unbearable within six minutes if a train were delayed in a tunnel. To avoid this scenario, they negotiated an agreement between China Light and Power and Hong Kong Electric to supply back-up power on opposite sides of the harbour in case of a power cut. 

Ventilation shafts are also part of the fire safety system. If a train catches fire, powerful fans extract the smoke and pump in fresh air. The MTR’s control rooms are programmed with a number of protocols for turning fans on and off in different situations.  

However, the fans are not used during normal operations. The system uses the movement of the trains to push air around. As a train speeds through a tunnel, it pushes the air in front like the plunger of a syringe, forcing it out of the ventilation shaft up ahead. Meanwhile, air rushes in from the ventilation shaft behind to fill the gap left by the train.

As the train moves through a tunnel, air is pushed out of the ventilation shaft ahead and drawn into the ventilation shaft behind. Graphic by City Unseen, 2024.

This means that ventilation shafts cannot be placed anywhere, but must be located close enough to the tunnels for the air pressure differential to have effect. Tunnel ventilation shafts are set up in pairs at either end of each MTR station, i.e. at the beginning and end of each tunnel segment. If a tunnel is very long, an extra shaft is added in the middle. Since each line has two tunnels carrying trains in opposite directions, each station has four shafts. There is also a third pair to serve the station’s air-conditioning system, bringing the total to six.

Current regulations state that MTR ventilation shafts should be at least 3m above the pedestrian level, and at least 5m away from nearby buildings. Air intakes should also be at least 5m away from air outlets, to avoid drawing the foul air back underground. 

 

How to hide a ventilation shaft in public

Andrew Mead, Head of Architecture at the MTR Corporation, says that the challenge faced by the MTR’s architects is figuring out how to integrate these large, ugly structures into the urban environment. These days, the MTR often merges them into station entrances so that they look like part of the building.  

Senior Project Architectural Manager Cheng Kwok-wai points out ones that have been given artistic flourishes. At Harcourt Garden in Admiralty, there is one outfitted with a forest of green metal tubes, giving it the look of a giant potted plant. On the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront, the massive shaft serving the cross-harbour line has been painted to echo the textured facade of the Museum of Art.  

“Sense of Green” ventilation shaft by artist Tony Ip at Harcourt Garden. Photo Credit: City Unseen, 2024. 藝術家葉頌文為夏愨花園設計的「脈綠」通風井。圖片來源:香港建解,2024年。

“Sense of Green” ventilation shaft by artist Tony Ip at Harcourt Garden. Photo Credit: City Unseen, 2024.

After the Museum of Art was renovated between 2015 and 2019, the large ventilation shaft outside was painted with designs reminiscent of its facade. Photo credit: City Unseen, 2024.

However, back in the 1970s, there was no budget for aesthetics. While the MTR famously pioneered a “rail-plus-property” financing model, the first line from Kwun Tong to Central was built on a tight budget of HK$5.8 billion provided by the Hong Kong Government. After being postponed for several years, the line was built in just five years, slicing through the heart of Kowloon with ruthless pragmatism. Engineers contended with a multitude of problems. Below ground, they encountered flooding, crumbly unstable soil, old reclamation seawalls, boulders, and a tangle of poorly mapped power cables, gas lines, and water mains. (Many maps of utility lines had been destroyed during the Japanese occupation.) Above ground, verandahs were removed from buildings so that heavy equipment could be placed on Nathan Road. Steel frames were suspended over excavation pits so that traffic could keep flowing. Rows of buildings were demolished to provide MTR work sites.

According to Mead, the MTR’s chief architect at the time, an Anglo-Italian named Roland Paoletti, found little scope for creativity in designing the stations, aside from choosing a different colour for each one. Where he did have some fun was in designing the ventilation shafts, using simple geometric shapes arranged with a whimsical sense of proportion. Still, his earliest ones were basic rectangular boxes. His more playful designs only started appearing on the Island Line in the early-to-mid 1980s. 

Hong Kong MTR ventilation shafts in Tin Hau and Causeway Bay designed by Roland Paoletti in 1980s. 羅蘭.保萊蒂於1980年代設計的地鐵通風樓,分別位於天后和銅鑼灣。

Ventilation shafts designed by Roland Paoletti in the early 1980s, located Tin Hau (left) and Causeway Bay (right). Photo credit: City Unseen.

How to hide a ventilation shaft on private property

When suitable spots could not be found on government land, the MTR placed ventilation shafts on private property. The ventilation shaft at 783 Nathan Road appears to have been built on a former MTR work site, and at 308 Nathan Road,  a six-storey building was demolished just for this purpose. 

HKGP Surveyor (我係 “橙葉測量師”), who runs a popular Facebook account about building issues, found that 308 Nathan Road was given to the MTR under a private treaty grant in 1980, and that its land lease actually required the MTR to construct a non-industrial building costing at least HK$100,000. The shop was built to fulfill the requirement. In other words, having acquired the site for the MTR, the government required them to make some economic use of it. However, standalone shafts on private land must not have been very cost-effective, as they do not appear on later lines. 

 

308 Nathan Road before and after constructing a MTR ventilation shaft 彌敦道308號改建為地鐵通風樓前和後的面貌,分別攝於1976和2024年。

Left: Building at 308 Nathan Road prior to demolition in 1976. Source: Hong Kong Government Records Service, file HKRS1158-1-7. Right: Ventilation shaft at 308 Nathan Road in 2024. Photo credit: City Unseen.

A more common early strategy was to find a site that was being redeveloped and compensate the owner for the inclusion of a ventilation shaft. For example, in 1979, the MTR paid the owner of 221B & C Nathan Road $100,000 for a 6 month delay plus additional construction costs incurred to their project. The shaft is now hidden in a back alley behind an office building, and several others exist in Jordan, Prince Edward, Sham Shui Po, and Wanchai. A similar strategy was to take a corner out of a private lot, forcing the developer to build around it. Examples can be found in Jordan, Lai Chi Kok and North Point.

These shafts were given even less aesthetic consideration than those on public land, but this paradoxically seems to have made them more invisible. They are so nondescript that the mind skips over them.

Left: Back alley ventilation shaft behind the Hanford Commercial Centre at 221 Nathan Road. Right: Corner ventilation shaft on private land on Tak Shing Street, Jordan. Photo credits: City Unseen, 2024. 左圖:彌敦道221號恒福商業中心後巷的通風樓。右圖:佐敦德成街,私人土地上佔據牆角一隅的通風井。圖片來源:香港建解,2024年。

Left: Back alley ventilation shaft behind the Hanford Commercial Centre at 221 Nathan Road. Right: Corner ventilation shaft on private land on Tak Shing Street, Jordan. Photo credits: City Unseen, 2024.

Over time, these less elegant solutions were abandoned in favour of fully integrating ventilation shafts into building podiums, either in properties developed by the MTR, or by requiring other developers to accommodate them through planning conditions.

This was done in a couple of places on the first MTR line, i.e. at Argyle Centre Phase II in Mong Kok, which was jointly developed by Hang Lung, Cheung Kong and the MTR; and the Landmark in Central, which was developed by Hong Kong Land. It became more common on the Island Line; ventilation shafts are hidden in Southorn Centre, Sogo, and the Sai Wan Ho Market and Cooked Food Centre, to name a few. All that is visible is a grille on the side of the building, and unless you go looking for unexplained voids in the floor plans, you would never know they are there. 

Ventilation shaft built into the podium of The Landmark on Queen’s Road, Central. 座落在中環皇后大道中上的置地廣場把通風口建入基座內。

Ventilation shaft built into the podium of The Landmark on Queen’s Road, Central.

Sources

Special thanks to Andrew Mead, Head of Architecture; and Cheng Kwok-wai, Senior Project Architectural Manager of the Mass Transit Railway Corporation. 

Colin Coulson, “The birth of the MTR: a personal recollection,” Journal of the Royal Asiatic Society Hong Kong Branch, vol. 59 (2019), pp. 200-208.

Christopher DeWolf, “The MTR turns 45: How it all began,” Zolima Citymag, 10 October 2024.

Mass Transit Railway Corporation, “Iron Underground: The Building of a Railway,” video documentary, MTRC, 1986.

Andrew Saint, “Roland Paoletti Obituary,”, The Guardian, 15 December 2015.

我係 “橙葉測量師”,〈彌敦道嘅單層地舖〉, Facebook post, 22 May 2021. 

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