Hong Kong has moats? The forgotten landscape of the New Territories

Hong Kong has moats? The forgotten landscape of the New Territories

by City Unseen

Call to mind the typical image of a New Territories walled village, and you will probably think of sturdy brick walls encircling modern village houses that have been redeveloped several times and now rise above the old fortifications. However, if you go several centuries back in time, the villages would have not only been surrounded by walls, but by moats, which together with the walls and watchtowers, formed a comprehensive system of defence.  

Today, remnant moats can still be found in a few villages in the New Territories, some of the few surviving relics of Ming-Qing settlements in Hong Kong. Embodied within them is the collective memory of the planning ability and collective organizational power of traditional clan society. Notable examples include Kat Hing Wai in Kam Tin and Sheung Shui Wai.  While their defensive role has long faded away, as part of the historic landscape, they have witnessed Hong Kong’s transition from traditional agricultural society to modernity. 

The moat of Sheung Shui Wai still has running water flowing into it. 上水圍護城河,至今仍有活水流入。

The moat of Sheung Shui Wai still has running water flowing into it. Photo credit: Ng Cheuk Hang, 2025.

Dual role: Defence and Feng Shui

By the start of the Qing dynasty, one of Hong Kong’s native ethnic groups, the Punti (also known as the “weitou people”), had already settled in Hong Kong. During the Ming and Qing eras, coastal areas in southern China faced frequent attacks from pirates and bandits. Villages also often came into conflict over land resources, leading clans to construct defensive structures. Moats were a common feature of these defences, serving not only as a physical barrier but also carrying deep feng shui significance. 

These moats, also called “village-encircling waters” in Chinese, were thought to gather qi (life energy) and shield against strong winds. According to the “Gazetteer of Xin’an County”, a good village location was one with mountains behind and water in front, as flowing water is believed to attract wealth and blessings. Villagers believed that moats could stabilize energy and protect their family prosperity. Hence, moats fused the practical with the spiritual: preventing fires and deterring thieves while providing spiritual comfort. 

吉慶圍的護城河,現在被稱為「水池」。 What remains of Kat Hing Wai’s moat is now called a “pond,” according to this sign.

What remains of Kat Hing Wai’s moat is now called a “pond,” according to this sign. Photo credit: Ng Cheuk Hang, 2025.

元朗錦田吉慶圍 Kat Hing Wai walled village, Kam Tin, Yuen Long

Kat Hing Wai walled village. Photo credit: Ng Cheuk Hang, 2025.

Kat Hing Wai: The iron gate and the moat

Kat Hing Wai in Kam Tin was established by a branch of the Tang clan during the Chenghua reign of the Ming dynasty (around the 1470s). When the village was first founded, it had no protective walls or moat. During the reign of the Kangxi Emperor (1654-1722), pirate activity increased along the coast, prompting villagers to extensively fortify their villages. Built in a rectangle, Kat Hing Wai is surrounded by approximately six metre high blue brick walls with watchtowers at each of its four corners. Outside the walls, a moat about ten metres wide once ran along three sides of the village. There was a single crossing over the moat, which led to a heavy iron gate that was the sole entrance to the village. Besides making it more difficult for enemies to mount a direct attack, the moat also provided villagers with water for firefighting and everyday needs. 

Sheung Shui Wai’s moat remains relatively intact. In the early 1990s, the government carried out improvement works that preserved part of the moat while enhancing the surrounding environment. 上水圍的護城河,相對比較完整。政府曾經在90年代初進行改善工程,令上水圍一部分護城河得以保留同時,也改善周圍環境。

Sheung Shui Wai’s moat remains relatively intact. In the early 1990s, the government carried out improvement works that preserved part of the moat while enhancing the surrounding environment. Photo credit: Ng Cheuk Hang, 2025.

Sheung Shui Wai: A moat of flowing water

Sheung Shui Wai, also called “Wai Loi Tsuen,” was established by the Liu clan during the Wanli reign of the Ming Dynasty (circa 1570s). Records indicate that their founding ancestor Liu Chung-kit settled in Sheung Shui in the late Yuan dynasty (1300s). By the Wanli period, incursions by pirates such as Lee Man-wing prompted the villagers to build defensive walls. Work on the moat began in 1647 and was completed the following year, demonstrating the organizational capacity of the Liu clan. 

Sheung Shui Wai’s moat has an ingenious hydraulic design. About five metres wide and two metres deep, it is connected to the Shek Sheung and Sheung Yue Rivers, using their natural flows to circulate fresh water around the village. This helps keep the water clean, supporting irrigation, drainage, fire prevention, and climate regulation as well as defence. Complementing the four-metre-high blue brick walls, Sheung Shui Wai’s moat is the quintessential example of water engineering in walled villages of the New Territories, showcasing traditional society’s deep understanding and creative use of their natural environment.  

Sheung Shui Wai’s moat circulation system was substantially intact in 1961. This 1:600 survey sheet, which marked the direction of water flow, shows how irrigation canals fed the moat. 上水圍護城河的循環系統於1961年仍大致完整。這張1:600地形圖標示了水流方向,顯示灌溉渠如何將水引入護城河。

Sheung Shui Wai’s moat circulation system was substantially intact in 1961. This 1:600 survey sheet, which marked the direction of water flow, shows how irrigation canals fed the moat. Graphic by City Unseen. Base map: Old Survey Sheets, Hong Kong Map Service, Lands Department Open Data.

Satellite image of Sheung Shui Wai, 2026. Note the concrete drainage channel to the left, built in the 1990s. 上水圍2026年衛星圖。左側混凝土排水渠為1990年代興建。

Satellite image of Sheung Shui Wai, 2026. Note the concrete drainage channel to the left, built in the 1990s. Source: Google Earth, 2026.

Modern transformation and changes in function

As villages expanded and the threat of bandits decreased, the security situation in the New Territories improved, reducing the need for defensive moats. Records show that in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, some walled villages, like Tai Wai Village, started filling in their moats to build more houses, so that by 1905, only half of its moat remained. Urban development further sped up this process, leading to the filling of moats for construction and prompting a reassessment of their original significance.

In the 1960s, part of the Sheung Shui Wai’s moat was filled in to build houses to accommodate its growing population. Kat Hing Wai’s was narrowed in the 1980s due to roadworks. These changes reveal how traditional villages have adapted and compromised in the face of urban sprawl, reflecting unavoidable tensions between heritage and modern development. 

Moats disappeared as villages expanded in places like Tai Hong Wai, Tai Wai Village, Shui Wai in Tai Po, and Nga Tsin Wai (now demolished) in the city. A few still remain, such as Kiu Tau Wai in Ping Shan, Yuen Long. 

Sheung Shui Wai’s moat flows into the area’s flood prevention drainage system. 上水鄉護城河與防洪渠道連接

Sheung Shui Wai’s moat flows into the area’s flood prevention drainage system. Photo credit: Ng Cheuk Hang, 2025.

Preservation and reinterpretation

In recent years, growing awareness of cultural heritage has drawn attention to the conservation of walled village moats. These waterways reflect the history and local culture of New Territories settlements. Ancient moats allow visitors to experience rural ambience while also helping regulate microclimates and sustaining ecosystems. Most importantly, they serve as valuable field sites for studying traditional hydraulics and village planning.

However, conservation efforts have not always been ideal. In 2010, the Home Affairs Department carried out drainage channel-related works on Kat Hing Wai’s moat. During this period, some sections were filled in, and after the works were complete, the moat was substantially narrowed. Trees along the riverbank were also cut down, attracting criticism from the Conservancy Association for damaging heritage. Officials promised to plant more greenery, but after the works were completed, all that remained of the moat was a shallow lotus pond. All this goes to show, when it comes to heritage conservation, different stakeholders often have completely different definitions and understandings of how to put it into practice. 

After major drainage channel repair work, Kat Hing Wai's surviving moat has mostly dried up. 排水渠大維修後,吉慶圍現存的護城河基本上已經乾涸。

After major drainage channel repair work, Kat Hing Wai's surviving moat has mostly dried up. Photo credit: Ng Cheuk Hang, 2025.

Moats in the New Territories’ walled villages originally served as Ming-Qing strongholds against bandits and feuds. Today, they are cultural relics that represent nearly 600 years of Hong Kong history, documenting the organization of clan society, traditional knowledge of environmental adaptation, and the way rural communities have persisted and adjusted to modernity. 

 

This article was written by contract researcher Ng Cheuk Hang.

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